So… I had the ‘amazing’ idea of turning my second PC (a Homelab NAS with a Ryzen 7600 CPU) into a gaming PC, and for some reason I decided to build a case… out of case fans.

I’ve actually had this idea for a while, but when I saw Corsair ML120 fans available for just £2.50 each in the recent sales, I bought a box load of fans (literally) and got to working making a PC build out of 36 case fans.

In this video I show off exactly how I achieved this, and then I wrap up by looking at the (really low!) temperatures – and measuring the power consumption too.

If you prefer text over video, please read on for the guide/transcript version of this video.

Video Transcript And Guide

[song] You’re as cold as ice. You’re willing to sacrifice our love.

Hey everyone! In the recent sales, I noticed that these really high-quality Corsair fans were on sale for like £2.50 each, and usually, they’re like £10 or more—at least in the UK. So, because I am a mature, responsible, and well-adjusted adult, I immediately ran out and spent all my wife’s money on a big box of Corsair case fans. It is literally jam-packed full of case fans to the point where the retailer just sent me the warehouse boxes directly from Corsair that have like ten fans in them.

The reason I’ve done this is because I’ve got an AM5-based system in an old 20 case. I’m eager to actually upgrade that to a gaming powerhouse, and I had the amazing idea of actually having a case entirely made up of case fans—making it the “Only Fans” PC build, if you please. Because of that, what I’ve actually done as well is place a second order for even more fans, because I calculated I didn’t have enough. I also bought loads of these Arctic case fan hubs so I can actually have full PWM control over the whole fans. So, if I wanted, I could have them run at 0% speed or just like 20% speed and be super quiet, but also ramp things up if I wanted.

So let’s just dive into how I actually achieved this. The first thing I needed to do was work out how many fans I’m going to have on the bottom because I wanted both my motherboard and the PSU on the bottom for reasons I’ll talk about later. As you can see here, a 3×3 array of fans would cover everything I needed—my MicroATX motherboard and the power supply unit—and give me space for cable management and all of that.

In terms of connecting the fans together, you can get 3D-printed things, but they are actually really expensive. So instead, I thought, “I’ll just try out standard cable ties and see whether that would work,” because I’ve got millions of the things in different cupboards. I tried actually cable-tying things together, but there was a bit too much flex there. And yes, I know I only had one cable tie there, but I knew this wasn’t going to be a great solution in general. It was just a bit too wobbly. I did do a few other tests with cable ties, but I knew this wouldn’t work for me.

So what I actually did was get six of these on a bit of paper, and I mapped out exactly where the holes are. Then I took this to my local DIY shop (the hardware shop, as you would call it in America), and I walked around the aisles looking at this bit of paper and matching it up to the aisles. As the staff and all the customers slowly backed away from the crazy person, I came across a perfect aisle and started cackling to myself because I found this metal fixing strip that seemed to be completely perfect. I mean, it actually matches up with the holes perfectly, and also these bigger middle holes actually allow the fan screw to go through it but not fall through the end. So the thread can go through it but not the head. It seemed like this was a completely perfect thing, but of course, I’d have to try that out.

I used pliers and cutters to actually cut up a big bowl of metal into smaller pieces. Then it was just a case of screwing it all in. Obviously, first, the fans get moving, but I quickly learned how to actually navigate things. And yeah, I then had both of these screwed in, and already I could see this was a lot better than the cable tie approach. It was a lot more secure, there was less movement, and that’s just with one bit of metal. So I thought this would be a pretty good method.

I used my super-strong muscles (kidding—it’s really thin metal) to actually scale up production of those little metal bars. And yeah, that’s a lot better than cable ties. So then I just kept adding more fans and more of these metal strips on, and the more I added, obviously, the more secure everything was. Although it wobbles a little bit, it’s actually going to be a lot better than cable ties, and I haven’t even tightened all of these completely either. Because this is the base, I knew I could actually add metal fixings to the bottom as well, ’cause no one would see that. I’m not going to do that on the side panels, but I will do it on the bottom ones. You can see there I’ve got loads of fan supports, and there’s no movement at all really. Then when we turn things over, I start adding even more fan supports. And yeah, obviously, there is a bit of movement because I haven’t tightened the screws completely, but when I add even a few more metal supports, it’s actually pretty solid. There’s barely any movement at all, so that is really good.

But I needed to actually test whether this would work, so I connected up all of the fan cables as well. I counted them all up, and there were eight, which means I was actually missing one. You can tell that this whole project is going to be a cable management disaster. But anyway, that’s the ninth cable I found and plugged in. Then I tried turning it on, and nothing happened at first, but the bloody PSU switch was off, wasn’t it? So I put it back on, and then finally it kicked into life. Look at that—we have liftoff, as you would say. That’s a really good sign actually.

So, now what I wanted to do was actually add some little feet to the bottom of this so that the metal fixings wouldn’t scrape all my tables and things like that. I bought some M5 washers, as you can see there—really small. I tried putting two or three down and then just screwed them in. As you can see, the screws didn’t allow for me to have three, but two was actually enough. As you can see, it actually works fairly well. Even though there’s a bit too much crotch in this example—sorry, let’s move on.

You can see the legs there. It’s two little rubber washers, and it just helps to lift things up. Obviously, it’s going to help bring more airflow in from the bottom because these are all set to intake. Next, I needed to get the hardware out of my old systems—that is, the PSU, a Corsair one, ironically. I got rid of all the power display cables, unscrewed it, and did all the usual things, of course.

This particular case is really annoying. The I/O shield always gets caught, but I freed the motherboard in the end, as you can see there. Actually, I knew that on the new case, I didn’t want any part of the bottom of the motherboard to scrape against the fan supports or anything like that—the bits of metal. So, I knew I needed motherboard standoffs, and I’ll show that point later.

First, I wanted to discuss the hardware in this system. It’s got a fairly good ASRock motherboard, a six-core Ryzen CPU, the 7600, and 32 gigs of CL30 6000 MHz RAM. Now, you’ll notice there’s no GPU here. I’ll discuss this later on, but at the time of filming, we were around CES time, and I didn’t want to go out and get a graphics card when the entire market was in flux.

Next up was planning where everything would go—roughly where the motherboard and hence the standoffs would go. I decided to put it there at the back of the case. Alongside it, I would put the Corsair power supply unit. What that meant was that at the back of the case, I’d have more room for cable management of the 36 fans, which was going to be fun. With the power supply unit there, I worked out I couldn’t have a fan directly behind it, but I could actually have two fans alongside it. I’ll show that off with a diagram in a minute.

For the side, I worked out that I could have three fans along there and three at the back as well. That would work absolutely fine. In terms of my super-technical architectural diagrams, I basically have nine fans on the bottom of this case. For the two side panels, they can each be a 3×2 array. I didn’t want this build to be too tall because it didn’t need to be, as long as I got clearance for a GPU and a CPU cooler. That’s two sets of six fans for 12 more fans. Then I add the PSU. As you can see from that amazing drawing, the side alongside that will have four more fans. Finally, the build will have a top panel as well, which will fit nine fans—34 fans in total. I’ll discuss the other two missing fans soon.

Of course, I needed to actually build the side panels first. This is me with six fans for one of the six-fan side panels. Again, it’s just a case of screwing it all together. Equally, I didn’t want to overtighten each screw because with every fan I added, I’d sometimes need to slightly move things. So, I didn’t want the screws to be 100% tight at this stage.

When it comes to the middle sections here, because this side panel would be facing inward, you wouldn’t actually see it. So, I went nuts and added three sets of metal brackets here. That really helped with stabilizing everything, even though the screws weren’t completely tight. You can see there it’s actually fairly stable.

Then it was a case of working out how I was going to attach the side panel of six fans. I decided to actually have it outward from the case to give me the most room, so it would be overhanging. As a result, I needed to create little feet—but I’ll discuss that in a minute—to support things. To actually secure it, I got these little right-angle brackets, which again I used the metal fixing strip for. You can see it there. What I did was put it in place and screw into it. I tested a few different things, but this was the best way of mounting the side panels to the base.

In terms of the actual feet, I measured things up just so it looked like I knew what I was doing. Then I got my overpowered saw and some random black PVC trunking. I cut it up for the feet—I probably shouldn’t have done this in my study; I should have done it outside, but there we are. So, that is the actual foot. This one is slightly too big; I had to go back and cut it again. But basically, that’s the idea. I’m going to glue these feet in place, as you can see there, and that’ll help stabilize it.

What we end up with is something like this. You can’t see any metal fixing strips or brackets on this bit because this is the part facing out. I only have the brackets on the inside for better aesthetics and things like that. This is one of the other side panels too—the one that would go next to the PSU, which is why it has just four fans, as there wasn’t space for six. If we look at the inside view now, you can see the metal fixing strips there. I just put them wherever I could, and this was really stable.

Before I could attach this to the build, I needed to work out exactly where the motherboard would go and hence where the standoffs would go. I knew I needed to lift it off so that there wouldn’t be any short circuits or anything like that with the metal fixing strips. Using a torch, I looked at exactly where the motherboard standoffs should go. I tried to make sure that I aligned the motherboard with where there was a solid bit of fan. Obviously, I couldn’t just have the standoffs floating in midair.

After getting a sort of plan in place, I moved on to changing my CPU cooler because the stock cooler is not the best. I picked up this ID Cooling one, which actually comes with two clips so you can have two fans on the CPU cooler, which I’ll show off in a minute. Actually, this is a really good cooler. So, I removed the old stock cooler and all the thermal paste with isopropyl field wipes. Then, obviously, I opened up the ID Cooling box, threw away the manual (because who needs that, right? Probably me later on, but we’ll find out).

So, that’s the actual fan that comes with it. Obviously, I have Corsair case fans, which I can use instead. This is the actual heatsink—it’s really nice, sleek, and all in black. I think it cost me a few pounds more, but I thought this would actually look a lot better. It’s really nice looking.

Obviously, I put the AM5 mounting standoffs, which you can see there—the gray ones. Simple enough. Then, I just attached the actual metal brackets, which was also super simple—only an idiot could get this wrong. And yes, you might have noticed a key issue: I actually had it upside down. So, obviously, I had to start again and flip things the right way up. I should have probably read that manual, shouldn’t I? But there we are.

You can actually see the screws there that the cooler would mount onto. The next step was to get the power supply unit and put that down just so I knew roughly where it would be. But obviously, the next step was going to be connecting the motherboard to the case. I use that term lightly because it’s just a bunch of Corsair case fans.

I actually went out and bought these nylon motherboard standoffs. They’re really clever because you can get multiple and screw them together if you want to make a bigger standoff. That’ll come in use later on. The other benefit of this particular kit is that you’ve got non-screw standoffs. What that means is, instead of drilling into my Corsair fans, I could actually glue the standoffs in. As long as I used a powerful glue—and I used Gorilla Glue—this was actually a fairly good idea. I just needed to make sure everything set.

You can see there I’m putting the first standoff in place. Then, I just needed to leave it to set before moving on to all the other standoffs. I put a bit of glue on there and stuck it in place. I knew where these locations would be because I’d already planned out where all of these standoffs were going to go. Sometimes I needed to move them slightly because what I was doing was putting the motherboard on top of it. If needed, I’d move it slightly. The good thing with this glue is you’ve got up to an hour before it completely sets. That was brilliant because I could move the motherboard standoffs a little based on this trial-and-error approach.

Eventually, I worked out exactly where the standoffs should be and left them to dry. Instead, I moved on to mounting the side panels. Obviously, I couldn’t really mount the motherboard first and then the side panels, as I wouldn’t be able to get underneath because the motherboard would be there. So, I put the side panels on and screwed them in place, as you can see there. It was a little bit fiddly, but the more screws I put in, the more stable it got.

Of course, it was a bit wobbly, but that was completely expected. The more side panels I added, the more I could connect them together, and the less wobbly things would be. So, I planned out exactly where I’d mount them and where I’d need to put the right-angle supports. Unfortunately, I made a mistake—I forgot there was a bit of metal standing up. Ow. God, ow. Yeah, that really hurt. So, I had to put a plaster on and then wore gloves so I wouldn’t cut myself anymore.

I finished adding a few more right-angle brackets, which meant I could then put the next side panel on. As you can see, I’m just moving things into place and screwing them in. This was quite fiddly—it was one of the more fiddly bits of the build, to be honest—but eventually, I got there. Then, I realized I could actually cable tie things together a little bit, which added more stability. It’s ironic, considering I ruled cable ties out as a fixing method, but I think the metal fixing strips were still the best thing to do. Relying on cable ties as well just gave an extra bit of support. That’s why I ended up doing both, especially for these side panels.

You can see there that things are now coming together. I’ve got two side panels, and the feet are there, adding a little bit of extra support. The next thing to do was to actually connect the motherboard to the case. I got all the fan cables out of the way and then screwed the standoff screws into the standoffs. It took a little trial and error because sometimes it wasn’t 100% lined up. But in general, it worked out better than I thought, actually. You can see me there screwing everything in, and it worked fairly well.

Before I knew it, the motherboard was actually connected to the case, and it was stable as well, which I was really happy about. You can see there’s no movement or anything else, which was really good. The next thing I could do was actually move on to adding the CPU cooler, which meant putting on the thermal paste. The ID Cooling cooler actually came with its own thermal paste, but it was the worst, god-awful thing I’ve ever seen in the history of the human race—which might be an exaggeration, but it just wouldn’t work. Maybe it had dried or something, I don’t know. Luckily, I had some Arctic MX thermal paste—MX4, I think. So, I used that instead. I probably used a bit too much, but too much is better than too little, in my opinion.

Then, it was a case of actually mounting the ID Cooling heatsink, which is really compact and slimline. I think it looks really brilliant, actually. I picked it up for quite cheap in the Black Friday sales, and I’m glad I did—it looks pretty good. Instead of the fan that came with it, I wanted to use the Corsair RGB fans, of course, because that would make more sense. The good thing with this CPU cooler is it actually comes with two sets of fan hooks. So, I got another Corsair RGB fan and connected that one up as well, so I’d actually have the twin fans there, which I think is a pretty sweet idea.

Next is actually the PSU, and I didn’t want the fan facing inward—I wanted it to face outward. Of course, that would be better. But how should I connect it? Well, that’s where even more metal comes in. It’s janky, but it’s going to work brilliantly—trust me. But before I actually did anything with that, I knew I needed to connect the final side panel, because otherwise, I probably wouldn’t have enough room to connect it after the power supply unit was installed. So again, this is me using the right-angle brackets to actually connect this up. This was also very, very fiddly, but I got there in the end.

I also relied on cable ties again, but they really helped here. That’s the final effect from the outside, which I think looks fairly decent, especially since you can’t see any metal. Now I needed to actually connect the power supply unit to the case. Again, I use that term lightly, but what I used again is the fixing strip I mentioned before. So, I had one there, but obviously, that only covers one set of screws. I needed to actually cut another piece of this metal off, as you can see there. Using my super-strong muscles, I eventually got there and screwed this in from underneath. I didn’t have a fan screw available from the top because there was a metal bracket there for something else.

Basically, that’s me screwing in this other piece of metal, using all of my finesse and pulling lots of funny faces. Then, I could actually connect the power supply to the metal. Yes, there’s going to be some movement, but actually, this is mainly about making sure the power supply unit doesn’t whack into the motherboard or anything like that. Then, I screwed in the final couple of screws on the left-hand side. I actually managed to get two screws in on the left-hand side. On the right-hand side, I only had one screw there, but again, the power supply unit is sort of secure with that in place.

I obviously wanted to see things power up, which meant connecting the CPU fans. Because I had two fans, I just used a Y-splitter, because I didn’t want to waste too many fan headers. You can see there I’m plugging that in. This motherboard does have two CPU fan headers, but I’m only using one, hence the Y-splitter. Then, I just used velcro cable ties, which are really, really useful. Any mistakes I made with cable management later on, for example with the fans, I could just take them off and redo the cabling. In this case, I just cable-managed that as best as I could.

The next thing to do was actually connect the CPU ATX power cable. You can see me plugging it in there, which was a little bit fiddly—but it’s always fiddly. Actually, it was probably less fiddly in this particular case. Then, I plugged in the motherboard PSU cable too, as you can see. Next up, I needed to carry on cable-managing things with the velcro ties. Yeah, it’s all looking fairly neat.

The next thing was actually turning the computer on. I bought this power button on Amazon—it’s actually a keyboard key. This is designed to mount on your desk. You’ve obviously got the three cables there, which go into the horrible front panel connector slots. I couldn’t remember where to put them, so I looked up the manual on my phone and then connected it all up. Actually, that was fairly straightforward.

Now, I could actually try booting it up. Yes, it booted up! I was so relieved at this point because I was worried I might have accidentally scratched the bottom of the motherboard or something and broken it. Luckily, I didn’t.

So now, I needed to move on to the case fans. To help me with that, I built a case fan worship altar for the fan hubs. It’s not actually a worship altar, of course, but it does look a little bit like that—I’ll explain in a minute. The problem I had, of course, was that I just had so many case fans to connect. That’s where these Arctic case fan hubs come in, because they each support 10 fans. But because SATA cables are a bit bulky, I couldn’t just have the Arctic fan hubs sitting right on top of each other. So, I needed to space them out a little bit.

I actually had the idea of using this SSD adapter from a really old case and using my motherboard standoffs to build little legs or spacers for both this worship altar for the fan hubs and also the individual fan hubs—I’ll talk about that later. Basically, right now I’m actually building all the legs, as you can see, for the fan hub altar.

The reason I’m doing this is because I didn’t want all of the case fan cables to be directly on the bottom of the case. They’d actually hit against the fans, and that would be really bad. So, I thought if I built this little weird-looking stand and added some legs to it, that would actually be a good idea. I also added another leg there as well, just for stability purposes. Then I could actually have my Arctic case fans on top of it, so the cable management would be a bit easier.

Once it was all done, I needed to work out exactly where I would put it. I decided that around there would work, but I also wanted to add another leg for even more stability. Then, I glued the actual fan hub worship altar onto the case with Gorilla Glue. But it does take up to 24 hours to set, so while it was setting, I started organizing all of the fan cables.

I grouped the six cables for one of the side panels and then zip-tied them together. I used a velcro cable tie to zip-tie them together and made sure I didn’t leave much slack there. What that meant was I was pulling the cables away from all of the fans. Again, I didn’t want any of those really delicate cables to hit against the fans or get sucked into them or anything like that. By cable-managing them like this, it helped me avoid any damage to the cables.

Next, I connected the power button to the actual case. I just put it on one of the fans there. It’s got this simple double-sided sticky thing, so you just remove the cover. Unfortunately, I haven’t got any nails, so it took me a really, really long time—an embarrassingly long time—to actually get the cover off. Eventually, I succeeded, though, and I could just stick the power button onto the middle of the case. As you can see there, it looks lovely, doesn’t it?

Then, I needed to cable-tidy this wire. It’s quite a long wire because it’s designed to sit on your desk, but it’s not actually designed to go inside your case. There was a lot of excess wire, but eventually, I tackled it. Then, I moved on to my fan hub centipede. I wanted to space them out, so I used the motherboard spacers, connected them all together to double them up a little bit, and glued them on there, as you can see. This was one of the weirder things I did that particular day.

Once it set, I glued the actual fan hubs together via the legs, as you can see there. I think it looks fairly good, and it gives me extra space for all of the cables. It’ll help with the cable management. That’s the final effect. But I knew I didn’t want to actually glue this onto the fan hub worship altar that I created because I wanted a little bit of flexibility. So, I used velcro strips. You can see there that I hooked one end onto the worship altar and then the other side to the bottom of the Arctic fan hub chain. As you can see there, it’s connected, and there is flexibility there, which is a good thing. I needed that for cable management, and also, I needed to be able to remove this completely. So, the velcro was a really good idea, if I do say so myself.

Next up, the whole point of these fan hubs is that I get full PWM control with them. I can do that by using the three chassis fan headers that are available on this particular motherboard. I connected one end to the motherboard, and then the other side goes into the back of the Arctic fan hub. That’s me just connecting them up. I’m really lucky that this particular motherboard does have those three chassis fan headers. I’ll talk about the other fan hub in a minute and how I connected that up. But that’s me connecting all three up there.

Then, I needed to connect the SATA cables to each of the three fan hubs and plug that into the PSU. At that point, the fan hubs had power and PWM control, which is brilliant. Then I could move on to plugging some of the fan cables into the Arctic fan hubs. That’s where it’s really useful that I used velcro because I could just remove it. That helped me with actually having the accessibility to plug in these cables. That’s me plugging them in, as you can see there. Then, I cable-tied everything together because it was a complete mess.

At this point, it was a good time to do another demo to make sure I hadn’t done anything really, really stupid—or more stupid than actually building a case out of Corsair fans. But that is the actual cable management so far—or, as I call it, cable management. It’s a complete mess of cables, but that is the effect so far.

Now we can try turning it on. Ha! There—that’s brilliant. Again, a massive relief because I’ve got the CPU cooler fans on, and now I’ve got one of the side panel fans on as well. I think it actually looks really nice, and it’s all coming together really well.

Next up, while I wasn’t recording, I connected a bunch of other cables into that middle Arctic case fan hub. So, it looks like a complete mess now, and the cables resemble Medusa’s hair on a bad hair day. But it is actually all coming together, and it’s time for yet another demo. I am one of those people that keeps booting things up just to make sure I haven’t completely broken anything. It worked, other than the cables hitting against the fans. But I moved them quickly, and you can see it actually looks really nice. You can see the other side panels there as well, so that was a big relief.

The final thing to do, at least for now, was to connect the nine remaining fan cables for the bottom panel to the top Arctic fan hub, as you can see there. I’m just hooking it all up and then cable-managing it as I go. That’s the final cable management for the side panels and the bottom fans, which looks like a complete mess. Weirdly, I found this stage relaxing—I don’t know what that says about me.

Next, I did yet another demo to see whether it would work. All the side fans came on, but the bottom ones did not. Luckily, it turned out I just hadn’t plugged the SATA cable all the way in. So, when I actually plugged the power cable in, as you can see there, it all booted up. That is brilliant. I’ve got my bottom fans and my side fans working well, and I can move on to the actual top panel, which would be a removable panel containing nine fans.

So, that’s me laying them all out. Then, offline, I just built them, because you don’t need to see those steps again. When it was all secure, I tightened everything up and planned out how it would fit. Obviously, it wouldn’t fit—it would just keep falling through the gap. So, I knew I needed a way of actually securing this in some way. I had the plan of doubling up these metal pieces, as you can see there. When it was doubled up, it was really good and sturdy. You wouldn’t be able to bend it or anything like that. I attached one of these to all four corners, as you can see there.

Then, I moved on to connecting this all up to an Arctic case fan hub. I wanted to remove the top panel completely or have the option of it, so I made sure that with this fan hub, I actually used velcro again. That’s me plugging in the PWM cable and also the SATA cable. You can see it’s completely removable too. With all that done, I could actually move on to connecting the nine individual fan wires into the Arctic fan hub. Then, I cable-tidied things as I went. Yeah, it was a fairly simple process, actually. Again, I found this fairly therapeutic.

That is the top panel, as you can see there. It just slots on top and actually fits really well due to those four supports I added. Obviously, it’s not perfect, but it’s meant to be a bit junky, this build—it’s meant to be a bit DIY. Now, I wanted to show off some example footage. You can decide for yourself.

[Song plays:] “You know that you are as cold as ice to me.”

So, why is there no graphics card in this system? You might be thinking I wimped out and didn’t want to fit the mounting bracket for it or something. But you can tell I’m really happy with janky approaches—hence the PSU and this entire build. Actually, the reason I didn’t go for the graphics card is that at the time of filming, CES 2025 hadn’t yet kicked off, and I knew that was going to upend the whole graphics card market. But in the future, I will get a graphics card in this build. Make sure you’re subscribed to see that.

What about the temperatures? Was this project a success or a flop? Well, as I mentioned, I got full PWM support and fan control. I have different groups for all of my fan hubs. If I go in and set everything to 100% fan speeds on a fresh boot, with the ambient temperatures in the room being around 18°C, what you would see is—well, firstly, the computer sounds really noisy. But secondly—sorry for actually recording my screen on a camera—but you can see the temperatures are insanely low. I mean, the CPU core temperature is below 20 degrees, and actually, the die average is below 32, which I think is really good.

If I then come along and lower the fan speeds right down to like 10% or something, my computer is inaudible. Actually, the temperatures aren’t that affected either. I mean, they are a bit higher, but they’re not that much higher.

So, what about the power consumption of all of these fans? Well, if I come along and, in the fan control software, turn off all the fans—so fan speed of zero—you can see that the fans just stop spinning. Actually, the power usage settles at around 85 watts on average. So, at idle, the computer’s using around that. Then, if I come along in fan control and set everything to 100% again—so activating the jet engine mode, as I like to call it—what you actually see is, firstly, it’s loud as heck. But secondly, the actual power consumption goes up to around 131 watts at max. So, actually, it’s not that bad from a power usage perspective.

Finally, it’s done, and it actually works fairly well. I mean, with one or two quirks, admittedly. But this isn’t going to be a one-off thing where I dismantle the fans and sell them on eBay after this video. I actually plan on using this completely, which is why I bought the fan hubs and everything else—because I did want that full PWM support. Obviously, I don’t want all of these fans spinning at full pelt all of the time.

I hope you found this video useful. Please leave me a comment with your thoughts, and please also click the thumbs-up button and subscribe to see more videos like this. Thanks for watching.